If you want to go to Nigeria, I’ve got news for you!
At first the word Nigeria caused a tyranny of conscious thoughts and hearsay I’ve harbored about Nigeria. I got a call from Koki Chiepe, one of Botswana’s greatest international designers based in India to be her show’s creative stylist for her brand, Koki Kamala for Arise Fashion Week, in Nigeria. “Arise, rise, lift off”, these are the synonyms that makes Africa’s biggest fashion extravaganza which returned with a bang on the 30th-March – 3 April, 2018, held at the prestigious Lagos Continental hotel. In the grand scheme of things, this invitation meant collaborations with the best and a chance to learn from the world’s finest fashion muses. It was a chance to network and rub shoulders with the world’s fashion gems- the multipliers, the movers, fashion entrepreneurs that I have admired before and during my fashion journey. Ecstatic and elated, I agreed to the contents of the call. Left with almost a week to show, we got our order of operation in set- the look building stages and contextual logistics of her brand, while I was still in Botswana and she, in India. Constantly day and night, we built and came up with a creative presentation that was to wow the show! Anyway, fate had another thing in mind. Prior to us leaving with some of the 45 other international designers, some couldn’t make it for the show because of visa issues, delays and Koki was one of the designers. In the end, on her end, it proved difficult to leave India for Nigeria. She could not make it for Nigeria on time.
It was my first trip to Nigeria -and I had an array of emotions and expectations. I boarded the South-African Airways from Botswana in the early morning of Wednesday 28th March,2018 to OR Tambo. After 2 hours of free time, I connected via South African airways to Nigeria. The flight to Nigeria was an interesting one. I have never heard people talk so loudly and cheerful all at once! Which made my journey better because I was sitting next to a Tswana South-African. We joined in the talks, laughed at our first misplacement and how Nigerians accents are nothing short of Nollywood movies. “ah ah, mxim” was a favourite throughout the flight. After 6 hours of flying and 1 hour or so of holding pattern, in perfect pure breeze and foggy skies, we landed safely in Murtala Muhammed Airport at 8:10pm. The excitement that squarely hit me was greeted by a hot, heavy, and stuffy air but couldn’t contain my excitement. Within minutes I was nursing a throat irritation. I realized that Nigeria, like Botswana was a hot but a humid place.
“eh, madam, Arise Faashun week?” I was greeted by 2 Nigerian airport police holding the Arise board closely to my face. I greeted them and before I could nod or utter a word in agreement, they grabbed my bags and made way to the Visa on Arrival office. As I looked down, I saw that there had collected one person, I went to him introduced myself and I was ecstatic to find out that it was one of my favourite designers, the immaculate South-African designer Thebe Magugu, who boarded the same flight but had gotten there before me. We all made our way to the visa office where we made our visa on arrival. This was a tiring process that took 2 hour or so. The visa office looked like a hub of international delegates from all over the world, trying to get a piece of the Nigeria pie. Anyway, after a while, one of Arise Fashion Week organizers, Oluchi came to our rescue and had the process hurried up. She took care of everything and we were ready to go to the luxurious Lagos Continental hotel – our home for the duration of the fashion week.
Around 10pm, we left the airport! As we left the airport for the hotel, a whole new world was revealed before my eyes. The setting cleansed my understanding of Nigeria, and everything at that moment made sense! An organized chaos hit me. It was around 11pm and there were people still on the streets. Some sealing business deals, some selling something, others trying to be someone, in a perfect facebook “meme-like” picture, some in an overloaded mini truck, with at least 30 mattresses nicely stacked up in the air, going somewhere at 120km/h! I was left dumbfounded! Gobsmacked. The scenery was not a Facebook pastime meme but now a reality. It was fast paced, everything moved in exaggeration and with intention. I could smell the money in the air, wealth in the air and somehow even the panic! I thought about my country, Botswana. I shared this bit with the chauffeur. “There are probably like a car or two in the streets right now in my country”. It was almost midnight, but there was a traffic jam, at around past 11pm! The fast paced environment left me nervous but excited. I started to think about it all. The city’s only functioning economy was the movement of people and goods. I also started to think about life. I noticed how travelling makes one modest. You get to see what a tiny space you occupy in the world – So many people, so many faces. Faces you will never get to see again. Anyway, we made our way to the island, through a bridge – which I was told was the longest in Africa, about 12km, to the posh side of Nigeria. We arrived at the hotel at around 12pm, checked in, into our individual rooms, which were nothing short of a haven – a palace. I took a shower and watched the telly to check whether my feelings about this country that has Africa abuzz with laughter but with a mask of pain was all about. At the back of my mind, I also wanted to forget and erase the language barrier moments that hit us all squarely throughout the evening!
The 30th came. The stellar line-up of international fashion icons and fashion designers legends I have dreamt of meeting and seeing left my head throbbing with excitement. What to expect? What is the new fashion? How, and what will the red carpet look like? Prior to the first show of the fashion week, Lagos’ finest and most glamorous celebrities hit the red carpet for the interviews and for meet and greets. I had never seen that many international fashion giants in one hotel. From those who work with the world’s icons – Beyonce, Naomi Campbell, Justin Bieber, Mary J blige to mention but a few.
The lights dimmed. Landre DaSilva Ajayi’s name popped on the LCD screen. Naomi Campbell, with her 26 inch sleek hair, and toned physique, donned in a gold fringe Lanre DaSilva Ajayi shift dress opened the show with her signature stomp while the dress that hugged her body twirled with every strut and beat. It was my first time seeing the powerful and most celebrated model in model history, walk. All of a sudden I fathomed why the fashion Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) presented her with a fashion icon award on June, 4th, 2018 and why she remains relevant in this time – 48 years and still killing it! Offering exposure to a bygone era and distinct vintage accents, Abaya Lagos collection stunned, giving a greater mix of cultural influences! They were clearly opening the door to so many new cultures, and these influences will change the industry. After a night form of art, music, fashion, architecture by Desingers Andrea Iyamah, Ziva Lagos, About That Curvy Life Collective, Divine Endowment, House of Divas, Vonne Couture, Kluk CGDT, Lanre Da Silva Ajayi, Laurence Airline and Fashpa we were done for day 1 of the Arise fashion week. This was definitely the glamorous side of Nigeria.
Met by Culture buffs, enticing performances, art nuts, fashion lovers and foodies, we made our way into the biggest runway in Africa. The bar was raised on Day 2 as the Taryor Gabriels opened the show in an all men’s collection. Tiffany Amber proved why she is Africa’s greatest export. A lot of colour, fifties style, cinched waists with full skirts, puffy sleeves, lace, as well as plenty of prints-on-prints, geometrics, transparency, luxurious fabrics, a dash of fantasy, and elegance graced the runway. Last to close my quest for a modern nostalgia was the international and former Gucci head designer, Ozwald Boateng. Silk scarves tied in knots, beret and war hats donned complimented with bespoke suits wrapped up the his afrofuturism presentation, making me miss my pastel vintage suit that ease my longing of a bygone era.
Oswald Boateng – Africanism – the new wave!
Andrea Iyama Swimwear
Day 3 marked the grand finale of the biggest fashion event of the season. Bringing in performance art to its knees through design, costume, music and storytelling with a mix of afro punk, and funk but in an depth, silly humor and musical science, was designer, Quiteria and George, who transported me right into the future! They had released me from a tyranny of conscious thoughts about my past through their designs. I was now enjoying the suitably eclectic “more is more” gowns, incorporating structure, and architectural esthetics. From pastels to blacks, satin to chiffons, pearls to fringing, and cut out silhouettes encompassed the collection. But it was Rich Mnisi’ who took it home by presenting a collection of futurism, giving aesthetic in favour of modern structure and the future of fashion in styling, and exaggerations. Thebe Magugu’s fashion presentation played a role of being a medium for conversation- for statements, questions and answers. One design that stood out for me that might possibly be a trend to look out for – a raised trouser dress. Designers such as Bridget Awosika, Quinteria & George, Mai Atafo, Sunny Rose, Rich Minsi , Chu Swannapha and more wrapped up the event with spectacular and stellar presentations.
HIGHLIGHTS
I had the opportunity to assist Trevor Stuurman who was shooting for British Vogue, backstage. Having a limited and personal feel of the silhouettes backstage proved to be a better choice than sitting front row at the fashion shows – which I have come to prefer. As we worked tirelessly, I was one of the few people (non models) who got to see Naomi Campbell in her element, backstage before she hit her runway shows for Tiffany Amber and Ozwald Boateng, which was a surreal and splendid moments of the show. The poise, grace and sophistication that come with being a house hold international A list celebrity, was worthy dime to marvel into. I got to see how A LISTERS management teams work and how defined their work and everything is. I also got to see A list celebrity stylists to the stars – Beyonce, Naomi Campbell, Justin Bieber and more, work! It was in this moment that I realized that wherever you are, or wherever you are from your talent is unmatched you have to believe in your capabilities. I left Nigeria sure that my creativity is phenomenal and styling service is up to par with the rest of the world. A question I have always, in my heart harbored and asked myself in honest moments when I doubted myself. I realized that I am a creative whirlwind, a path finder not a follower, an opinion leader. I realized that, for everyone who believes in themselves, your presence is a nod and that we are ALL indeed a star dust of magic, if we wand our hands, rub them together to create the fire!
I captured this backstage while assisting Trevor Stuurman on his assignment with British Vogue!
For 2 nights, I forgot about the hot and humid Naija!As the fashion curtain closed, I had made friends and formed connections. Nigerians had cloaked my soul with so much radiance! I then realized that there was no such thing on earth as an uninteresting subject, the only thing that can exist is an uninteresting person. Linda from 234 Stars gave me a highlight to remember. I had just met her on the frow (FRONT ROW). We instantly clicked and she became my bestie. Through her I got to try the famous jollof rice, pap and vegetables and turkey gizzards, pound meat and paps, which made me frequent the bathroom. I tried the famous Jollof rice, which I thought tasted like overcooked tastic rice, but spicy. It made me think about confidence. Nigerians could sell anything to me. If I had plain white rice, I’d buy Jollof because of their confidence in it. We hopped on the Keke, which I think could easily pass off as Nigeria’s must try and best adventure transport for a tourist. This experience was a second to a secret memory. The tricycle was convenient, cheap, and fast – a clever way to beat the Naija traffic. I have seen and lived the most breath-taking moments in Nigeria that I did not have the urge to snap away. I guess it’s true what they say, The moments lives are never captured by the microchip, but by the heart. And if i had captured it all, then i wouldn’t want to go back. I parted ways with Linda, hugged said our goodbyes and promised to keep in touch. As I packed my luggage, preparing to leave for the airport, I received a special call from Adetuko of SGCTclothing. Adetoukwe, followed me on instagram and wanted to give me some of her SGCT clothing. In her fancy suv, she came by the hotel and took me for a drive spin. I got to see the best of both worlds of Nigeria – The up market, ALARA – the it place which one must go to when in Nigeria. We drove to the main land, where it really goes down, the market! Tuke took me to ……….Nigerian market which sold one of Africa’s amazing fashion duds. The Nigerians could tell I was a foreigner, trying their best to swindle me of my last Nairas. I defeated them with signs and unimpressed facial expressions. Adetuko was shocked at how well I carried on in a place where she thought was unsafe for me. I was even amazed at my zeal and fearfulness! This was truly Nigeria. The real, raw essence – a world different from the fashion week. Within the 15 minutes or so we were I the congested market; I had learnt how to not lose too much money, and also how to negotiate with a Nigerian. The trick was to speak in your best aggressive, firm and commanding tone. We left the market, hurriedly at 3pm, as I had a flight back to catch, later in the evening at 10pm. Toke insisted that should I want to catch my flight, We should leave the island before 4pm as traffic gets bad to the mainland. I thought it was a joke, but I had a slight idea what she meant, recalling the many cars we saw the day we arrived from the airport to the hotel. Imagine, 6 hours in traffic! We drove back to the mainland, took what it felt like forever. In my head, I was already making plans I had left behind with the many fashion editors that wanted me on board, should I miss my flight. I had just met Toke- who got in touch with me via instagram and did she make a great tour guide for my last hours in Nigeria. She was the perfect hostess. She was feisty and warm. I liked her. What could go wrong? I toyed with the idea of staying for long, since I also got offered magazine work styling and a cover shoot. I weighed the prospects! We made it to the airport at 9pm, after hours of sitting in traffic! We hugged and said our goodbyes. I learned that good-byes will always hurt, pictures will never replace having been there, memories good and bad will bring tears, and words will never replace feelings.
I wrapped my luggage. To my dismay, I had 300$ left and a R100. I wouldn’t dare give a 100$. I had learnt the hard way. I gave the man my last R100 for luggage wrapping. He took it and kept quiet. I knew it, oh Nigeria! Not again, not the swindling again. I went to the South-African airways counter. I asked, “Sorry sir, how much is R100 in Naira”? I asked. The man replied “I saw it all, tell him to give you your change.” I went to the man. “Sorry sir, can I have my change back”? Surely it isn’t R100 to wrap my luggage. I said confidently, assured. The man gave me back my change. I secretly laughed and happy about my triumph. This was an achievement. I had managed to get my money back. I checked in my luggage and went to the lounge to wait for my flight. I just had a week from heaven. Eventually i discovered for myself the utterly simple prescription for creativity and sheer joy: be intensely yourself. Don’t try to be outstanding; don’t try to be a success; don’t try to do pictures for others to look at -just please yourself.
At 10pm we flew out of Nigeria back to S.A.
And my journey back to Botswana was a 55 minute journey of stops and starts. Being patient towards all that is unsolved in my heart and trying to love the questions themselves. Still moments that revealed secrets of eternity. These are moments of such pure, sublime, unparalleled perfection that they will force you to close your eyes and hold on to them as best you can. Life is a series of these moments. Everything else is just waiting for them.
I have gained such an appreciation and love for Nigeria, and the passion of its people for and towards each other. Every bit of it. Its glory, its new rookies, the bubbling under, the mainstreams, the Underground, the gloomy weather, the keke tricycle, jollof rice, the next best, the firsts, its newbies, the wannabes, the has been’, the team work, the creative, the Nairas, the market, the love for each other, the` vigor, aggression of the accent, The fast pace. The island. The mainland. The luxury, The team “no sleep”, the I will be back, the hard work, the love, the unusual level of optimism, the stacking of goods, the love for God, the decay, the Nollywood, the entrepreneurship skills, and the funny fickle corruption!
It’s the extra-ordinary moments like these that I can’t take credit for. Fashion is not a fairytale, but a dream you craft. Like life, it is a message and your creativity and gift is how well you deliver that message.
I hope you deliver yours soon.
* A hearty round of Thank you to Koki Chiepe for the opportunity and believing in my creativity, and creative abilities, moreover a big thank you also to Arise fashion week team for a week of great hospitality, breath-taking sights, and a fashion filled week. Another hearty thank you to Lucky Sky travel and tour agency!
Nigeria, “NO DEY CARRY LAST”..
Photography | Reze Bona (runway)
THE KHOI-FRO 